New Parts Needed ..... at least

From BMW of Chattanooga 

 

 

ACCELERATOR BOWDEN CABLE.

Stock Code	32731457015
Fitment Notes

Your Price	$ 27.12

Installation Instructions	N/A
Additional Notes	L=937MM
Alternate Stock Code	32721450217
Categories	Steering > Bowden cables; Steering > Lubrication system; Suspension - Front > Bowden cables; Accessories (Motorcycle) > Suspension and Steering
Assemblies	Bowden cable (K 100 RS: Up To 06/1986 K 75: Up To 06/1986 )
Manufacturer	Genuine BMW

Choke cable.
This fits your 1985 BMW Motorcycles K 100 RS.

Stock Code	32731451637
Fitment Notes

Your Price	$ 26.72

Installation Instructions	N/A
Additional Notes
Alternate Stock Code
Categories	Steering > Bowden cables; Suspension - Front > Bowden cables; Steering > Lubrication system; Accessories (Motorcycle) > Suspension and Steering
Assemblies	Bowden cable
Manufacturer	Genuine BMW

I may have some answers to my problems

Since I had no where to start looking for the constant running starter problem, I posted on K100 for help. Almost immediately "Inge K" said that I had a fused starter relay from a low voltage battery! I don't know why a low voltage battery would cause a relay to fuse, but I have to believe. I don't have time to check tonight, Fathers Day.

This lead me to think of the no starting and low voltage; or image in it's a case of low amps. If the computer and electronics don't have enough juice to do their job the bike wouldn't start. It also makes sense in all the times the bike has almost started it's like it just doesn't have the power to start, or continue it's start.

So it's off to buy a battery tomorrow at Battery Warehouse. I checked the AGM battery is $139. Although I'm going to check at Sam's. They had a 20 amp AGM battery for $89.

Another inspection.....

Revealed that I once again had the spark plug wires wrong. The 3-4 wires were switched. I know these seems unlikely but because they seem to be the wrong length for their proper positions and I'm a poor mechanic it happens. Again. I have them in 1-3-4-2 order as gleaned from posts.

I tried to start the bike...no go.

Since the air box was open I tried some starting fluid. It wanted to pop with the starting fluid but didn't kick. Then to add insult to injury the starter kept turning. It wouldn't go off until I killed the battery at the source. I waited a minute, turned the battery back on and the starter started turning. This with the kill switch and key in the off position!

So now I'm waiting for the  thing to cool down, dry out. I'm thinking some of the ether got the contacts wet. Or worse yet something caused the contacts to fuse!

Today I'm going to remove the right lower and try to remove the air filter

My thought is that if the bike can't "breath" it can't burn. It's also the "easiest" least costly thing I can do to see if she'll run.

As for the easy part, I only found one post on how to remove the filter. It ain't easy! The lower has to be removed. The tank has to be Up or off.  The clips holding the filter assembly need to unlatched. and the filter has to slide out. Oh, and I think a hose has to come off? There were no pics on the post.

Yup, there is a little accordion portion of the hose that attaches to the front fairing. I suppose this acts as an air ram. By compressing the accordion, the elbow section that attaches to the air box can be pulled out. Then the two rear clips and forward clip need to be unlatched. The one "unseen item that needs to be moved is a foam/rubber dam that needs to be slid forward. It rides on top of the "air box" and may at one time have been zip tied to the frame. Since I got the bike used I have no idea how things are "supposed" to look or be. From there the filter which kind of slides out to the right side may be slid out. Once out, there is enough play in the upper and lower portion to do some inspection.

I did look around and then tried to start the bike. It didn't start.

Yesterday, June14, 2012 Clean plugs, clear holes, try to start

As the title implies, I tried another start. The only difference is that I tried the blow torch on the holes. I had no ignitions. It wanted to start on the starting fluid, but didn't.

I've read all the posts and there are alot of things I could try. The most tempting being pulling the fuel rail to see if the injectors are squirting. That of course is one of the most costly and possibly damaging things I can do. If I screw up the injectors they will be costly to replace.

I intend to replace them it's just that I'm trying to be smart about my investments. If the money needs to be spent someplace else that is more urgent, I want to spend it there.

I tagged a tittled the bike the other day $211. I don't count this towards the cost of getting the bike running, it's a cost associated with any new auto, boat or bike purchase.

I do keep an eye on bike and bike parts in craiglist. There were two bikes listed that would be tempting;

1986 K100RS - $2700 (Chevy Chase,MD)

Good looking and great running K bike. Speedo was replaced at 20K. Currently shows 19K (39k actual miles on bike). Bike has recent tires, battery, clutch cable and new stock seat cover by John Longo. Also has hard to find Luftmeister header, which is a great upgrade from stock. BMW hardbags included. Bike was gone through by Bob's BMW and given a clean bill of health. Serious buyers only call Patrick at 301-718-2873. 301-801-0892 $2,700.00 or best offer.


And:


BMW K100, Sport Tourer - $2200 (Arbutus)This 1989 BMW has 54,000 miles on it, which means that it has many years of life left. I have owned this bike for about six months and have replaced the seat cover, the spark plugs and the starter relay. The machine was recently equipped with new tires and a new battery when I bought it. The bike is very smooth, fast and comfortable and runs well. The ABS is not working, but this has no effect on the operation of the brakes. No inspection is required if you put historic tags on it. Just buy, tag it and ride it. Great everyday transportation, reliable and cheap. 45 to 50 mpg. Insurance is cheap also. The bike was stored outside by the previous owner, so it shows some rust on screws and such, some minor cracks and scratches on the fairing, but the bike is mechanically sound. Not shown but included is the matching BMW luggage and a tank bag. I would have no problem riding this bike anywhere. A fast tourer. Call 410-779-9275

 

 This in my opinion is a pretty bike. At $2200 it might not be a steal but it's running with just a few miles more than my bike. Of course the problem is that I don't have the cash. With my bike I can make expenditures over time and hope to have a nice running bike that I know inside and out.

 

 

 

 

 

The Back firing issue...Some Thoughts

One post said that the backfiring could come from the throttle down switch (my name I can't remember what it's called). If the switch is set wrong the fuel pump continues to pump below 2k rpm's. I don't really think this is the issue because I got it as low as 1k with slight backfiring.

Of course if the ignition wires were wrong this could account for it. But, I can't get it to run since I believe I corrected them.

There is one wire that seems less than perfect on it's coil side. The copper contact has some greening on it. Although I couldn't get it shiny bright I was able to get it clean enough so that I think it should be able to do it's job (it was that way when the bike ran.

The other item is the vacuum hoses which posters say will cause rough running. I've done a visual inspection and have found  no holes. I did not remove the hoses so my inspection is only 50%. The hoses weren't clamped when I got the bike. By clamping them it may solve the problem.

I tried to start the bike late on the 10th...No Go

I checked the plug wire locations, all OK. I pulled the plugs and cleaned them. In each hole I squirted some starting fluid and installed the plugs. I tried to start the bike it sounded like it wanted to start on the ether but didn't. I can never decide if it sounds like an ignition issue or a fuel issue.

I thought I'd pull the tank and get on with my electrical connection cleaning. I pulled the fuel feed line from the tank and fuel came gushing out. That of course means that fuel is getting to the fuel rail. The question looms, is fuel going through the injectors? I'm hesitating to pull the rail again because I don't think the rubber O rings can stand up much longer. Of course that means I should replace them but funds are short. I haven't even looked up the price of BMW injectors, all the posts say they are pricey.  OK, I just peeked $265 without the O rings a piece over $1000 to replace. There are substitutions, which I put on the parts post; and their are refurbished sets available for $90.

The real question is...Why did it run...Why did it stop?

The injectors must have been working when it ran. Did the clog from something in the line, everything else was cleaned and the new fuel is filtered.

Did I add too much carb cleaner, even though I diluted it more after it was running?

I had thought that it might need high octane gas, but it should still start.

Did it flood and remain flooded even after sitting for more than a day?

I had thought of doing what one poster said he did. He would take a blow torch and quickly blow into the plug holes! He said there might be an ignition...but the cylinders would be dry!